树梅派wifi天线改造

origin:https://www.dorkbotpdx.org/blog/wramsdell/external_antenna_modifications_for_the_raspberry_pi_3

Preface:

This post will detail a couple of different ways that an external antenna can be added to the Raspberry Pi 3.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.  ALL OF THE FOLLOWING WILL HAPPEN:
1) YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY
2) YOU WILL VIOLATE FCC REGULATIONS
3) THE PI'S WI-FI CERTIFICATION WILL BE VOID
IN ADDITION, YOU COULD EASILY DAMAGE YOUR PI

Please view this as a purely experimental exercise and proceed at your own risk.

It's not clear why an external antenna is not an option for the Pi 3, there are a number of possible reasons and I don't presume to know the Raspberry Pi Foundation's exact rationale.  It could be to improve the out-of-box experience, an integrated antenna "just works" and there's no potential for the antenna connector to be broken plugging in an antenna.  It could be to reduce complexity, the unit with an integrated antenna is compact and self-contained.  It could be for regulatory reasons: in order to sell the device for use with a user-supplied antenna, the performance characteristics of that antenna need to be specified as part of the user instructions, and those characteristics must be adhered to in order to maintain compliance.  Good luck with that.

Overview:

There are two basic approaches to adding a connector for an external antenna: remove the onboard antenna on the top side of the board and solder a coaxial pigtail in its place, or use the supplied pads on the bottom side and mount a U.FL connector.  The first approach is much easier and can likely be accomplished with few special tools aside from a good soldering iron; however it results in compromised performance.  The second approach involves precision soldering and is best attempted with strong magnification and a very fine soldering iron tip.  Do not attempt it unless you're comfortable working with 0201 components (0.020" by 0.010", about the width of two and a half human hairs).  It does result in substantially improved performance as compared to the top mount approach.

Top mount:

Start by removing the onboard antenna.  Soldering tweezers or a heat gun can be used, or a well-tinned soldering iron with a sufficiently large tip.  After removal, the board will look like this:

Raspberry Pi 3 top view #1, showing coaxial attachment point

Note that some soldermask will need to be cleared away to attach the coax's shield, as seen to the left in the image.  Next, prepare the coax tail.  Strip the outer insulation back ~0.150" (3.75mm), tin the shield, then trim the shield back about 0.100" (2.5mm), finally, strip the center conductor about 0.050" (1.25mm) from the end.  Solder the shield to the groundplane, and the center conductor to the antenna feed pad.  The finished result will look like this:

Top view #2, showing the coax attached

The finished product, with coaxial "tail" attached will look like ths:

Finished top view

U.FL Connector:

Mounting a U.FL connector to the board is straightforward for those with experience working with miniscule surface mount devices.  It involves clearing some soldermask and rotating one zero-ohm resistor.

Here is a U.FL connector overlaid on the provided pads:

Raspberry Pi bottom view, showing U.FL connector overlaid on the provided mounting pads

Note that while the U.FL connector fits very well on the two exposed pads, there's soldermask covering the area where one of the leads falls.  While you could just solder the two exposed pins, for mechanical robustness and optimal RF performance it's best to clear out that solder mask and solder the lead.  After mounting the U.FL, rotate the resistor nearest the output filter, the large white device in the bottom of the image, 45 degrees to the left.  The result will look like this:

Raspberry Pi 3 bottom view #3: U.FL connector mounted

Be careful not to short ground to the header pin just above the connector.

Another approach would be to cut the output trace leading to the antenna and add a solder blob to bridge the output trace to the trace leading to the U.FL connector.  I haven't tried this, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, though likely with some adverse impact on the RF performance.

Performance:

I configured my Raspberry Pi 3 as an access point following the excellent instructions here:
https://learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/setting-up-a-raspberry-pi-as-a-wifi-access-point.pdf

After completing the steps in that procedure and rebooting, I was able to connect to the Pi with my Android phone.  Using a spectrum analyzer with an attached rubber duckie antenna, I was able to observe the AP beacon packets being transmitted.  I captured the transmitted beacon spectrum at channels 1, 6, and 11 (2412, 2437, and 2462 MHz), then moved on to conducted measurements.

I observed the conducted output power of the Pi using a Tektronix MDO4000-series mixed-domain oscilloscope, using an RF power trigger on the beacon packets.  Power measurements were calibrated to an HP 8481D power sensor.  The observed RF output powers are shown below:

ChannelFrequencyCoaxial tail output powerU.FL output power
12412 MHz14.13 dBm15.98 dBm
62437 MHz13.67 dBm16.15 dBm
112462 MHz13.47 dBm16.39 dBm

The U.FL numbers are consistently 2-3 dBm higher, almost a doubling in conducted power at the high end of the band.  This is due to the massive impedance discontinuities presented by the antenna feed trace and the exposed center conductor of the coaxial cable.  While it's likely possible to recoup some of that with RF tuning using the series and shunt placements in the RF path, at that point it makes more sense to go to the U.FL connector approach.  A comparison of the output spectra is shown below, with no compensation applied (hence the radiated power is much lower than the conducted powers).  All graphs use a resolution bandwidth of 10 kHz.

Output power comparison

A normalized graph showing the relative spectral regrowth is below.

Spectral regrowth of the three approaches

This graph is useful for comparing the in-band noise performance of the various approaches.  The onboard antenna fares the worst close-in to the carrier, likely due to either fundamental mismatch or poor harmonic termination impacting power amplifier linearity.  Further out the spectra become more comparable.  The violating spikes are transient in nature, not part of the modulated waveform.  Also, the resolution bandwidth used here is incorrect, it should be 100 kHz for 802.11 spectral mask measurement.

Future Work:

No attempt has been made to characterize out-of-band performance, or performance with any particular make or model of external antenna.  A more comprehensive review of spurious and harmonic emissions is advised.  Also, while it's likely that the U.FL and coaxial cable approaches lead to satisfactory WLAN performance, further analysis of adjacent channel power and error vector magnitude would be wise.


<think>好的,我现在需要帮助用户解决树莓派WiFi连接失败的问题。首先,我得整理用户提供的引用内容,看看里面有哪些有用的信息。 引用[1]提到射频功率不足的问题,建议外置天线或USB无线网卡。引用[2]分析了连接热点或WiFi后无法上网的可能原因,比如配置错误或驱动问题。引用[3]讨论了修改配置文件后服务未启用的问题,以及如何共享手机网络。这些信息需要整合到解决方案中。 接下来,我应该按照逻辑步骤来组织解决方案。通常,排查网络问题可以从硬件到软件,逐步深入。比如,先检查物理连接,再查看驱动和配置,然后是服务设置,最后考虑替代方案。 用户提到的射频功率不足可能导致信号弱,所以外置天线或USB网卡是解决办法。然后需要检查WiFi配置是否正确,特别是SSID和密码是否正确,国家代码是否设置。raspi-config里的国家代码设置错误可能会导致5GHz网络无法使用。 接下来是驱动和软件问题,比如检查无线网卡是否被识别,是否需要安装驱动。更新系统和固件也很重要,可能修复已知的兼容性问题。然后,检查DHCP配置是否正确,是否获取到了IP地址。如果DHCP有问题,可能需要手动设置静态IP。 服务管理方面,确保wpa_supplicant和dhcpcd服务正常运行,没有被其他服务冲突。如果使用hostapd或dnsmasq,需要确认它们是否被正确启用,并且配置没有冲突。 此外,引用[3]提到了共享手机网络的方法,可以作为备用方案,比如通过USB网络共享或蓝牙连接,这在无法连接WiFi时很有用。 最后,生成相关问题,帮助用户进一步排查其他可能的故障点,比如特定错误信息、提高信号稳定性、共享网络方法、配置文件路径以及日志查看方法。 需要确保每个步骤清晰,用户能够逐步操作。同时,引用要正确对应到各个步骤末尾,比如引用[1]对应硬件问题,引用[2]对应配置或驱动问题,引用[3]对应网络共享方案。 现在要组织这些内容,用中文分步骤说明,确保LaTeX格式正确,行内公式用$...$,独立公式用$$...$$,但这里可能用不上数学公式,所以重点在代码块和引用标识的正确使用。同时,生成的相关问题要贴近用户可能遇到的后续疑问。</think>### 树莓派 WiFi 连接失败解决方案 #### 1. 检查硬件与驱动 - **射频功率不足**:树莓派内置无线网卡可能因射频功率不足导致信号不稳定,表现为频繁断连或无法连接。 **解决方法**: - 外接天线(需树莓派型号支持)[^1] - 使用免驱动USB无线网卡(优先选择支持2.4GHz/5GHz双频的型号) - **驱动兼容性**:运行 `lsusb` 查看无线网卡是否被识别。若未识别,需安装驱动(如RTL8188系列需 `sudo apt install firmware-realtek`)。 #### 2. 验证WiFi配置 - **配置文件检查**:编辑 `/etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf`,确保格式正确: ```bash ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev country=CN # 必须设置国家代码(如CN为中国) network={ ssid="WiFi名称" psk="密码" } ``` **注意**:通过 `sudo raspi-config` > **Localisation Options** > **WLAN Country** 设置国家代码,避免5GHz频段不可用[^2]。 #### 3. 网络服务排查 - **重启网络服务**: ```bash sudo systemctl restart dhcpcd # 重启DHCP服务 sudo systemctl restart wpa_supplicant # 重启WiFi认证服务 ``` - **禁用冲突服务**:若同时启用 `hostapd`(热点服务)或 `dnsmasq`(DHCP/DNS服务),可能造成冲突。运行: ```bash sudo systemctl stop hostapd dnsmasq # 临时关闭 sudo systemctl disable hostapd dnsmasq # 永久禁用(若无需热点功能) ``` #### 4. 手动分配IP地址 若DHCP获取IP失败,尝试静态IP配置: 1. 编辑 `/etc/dhcpcd.conf`,添加: ```bash interface wlan0 static ip_address=192.168.1.100/24 static routers=192.168.1.1 static domain_name_servers=8.8.8.8 ``` 2. 重启服务:`sudo systemctl restart dhcpcd`。 #### 5. 共享手机网络(备用方案) 当WiFi彻底无法连接时,可通过USB或蓝牙共享手机网络: - **USB网络共享**: 1. 用数据线连接手机与树莓派,启用手机“USB网络共享”功能。 2. 树莓派会自动识别为有线网络(`eth0`接口)[^3]。 - **蓝牙共享**: 安装 `bluetooth` 和 `obexpushd` 包,通过 `bluetoothctl` 配对后共享网络。 #### 6. 日志分析 通过以下命令定位具体错误: ```bash journalctl -u wpa_supplicant -b # 查看WiFi认证日志 ip a show wlan0 # 检查网卡状态与IP分配 ping -c 4 8.8.8.8 # 测试网络连通性 ```
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